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Title

Spectral Quantification of Nonlinear Behaviour of the Nearshore Seabed and Correlations with Potential Forcings at Duck, NC, USA

Publication Year

2012

Author(s)
  • Magar, Vanesa
  • Lefranc, Marc
  • Hoyle, Rebecca B.
  • Reeve, Dominic E.
Source
PLOS ONE Volume: 7 Issue: 6 Article Number: e39196 Published: 2012
ISSN
1932-6203
Abstract

Local bathymetric, quasi-periodic patterns of oscillation are identified from 26 years of monthly profile surveys taken at two shore-perpendicular transects at Duck, North Carolina, USA. The data cover both the swash and surf zones. Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA) and Multi-channel Singular Spectrum analysis (MSSA) methods are applied, on the shoreface, to three potential forcings: the monthly wave heights, the monthly mean water levels and the large scale atmospheric index known as the North Atlantic Oscillation. The patterns within these forcings are compared to the local bathymetric patterns; it is found that the patterns extracted using SSA and MSSA agree well with previous patterns identified using wavelets and confirm the highly non-stationary behaviour of beach levels at Duck. This is followed by analysis of potential correlations between the local bathymetry (at the two transects) and hydrodynamic and atmospheric patterns. The study is then extended to all measured bathymetric profiles, covering an area of 1100 m (alongshore) by 440 m (cross-shore). MSSA showed no collective inter-annual patterns of oscillations present in the bathymetry and the three potential forcings. Annual and semi-annual cycles within the bathymetry are found to be strongly correlated with the monthly wave height, in agreement with the SSA findings. Other collective intra-annual cycles besides the semi-annual were identified; they were all correlated with the North Atlantic Oscillation.

Author Keyword(s)

Error: empty list

KeyWord(s) Plus
  • NORTH-CAROLINA
  • WAVE CLIMATE
  • SOUTHERN-OSCILLATION
  • TEMPORAL VARIABILITY
  • SHORELINE RESPONSE
  • SANDBAR BEHAVIOR
  • BEACH PROFILES
  • TIME-SERIES
  • EVOLUTION
  • MORPHOLOGY
ESI Discipline(s)
  • Multidisciplinary
Web of Science Category(ies)
  • Multidisciplinary Sciences
Adress(es)

[Magar, Vanesa; Reeve, Dominic E.] Univ Plymouth, Coastal Engn Res Grp, Inst Marine, Sch Marine Sci & Engn, Plymouth PL4 8AA, Devon, England; [Lefranc, Marc] Univ Sci & Technol Lille, Lab Phys Lasers Atomes Mol PhLAM, Villeneuve Dascq, France; [Lefranc, Marc] Univ Sci & Technol Lille, CERLA, UFR Phys, Villeneuve Dascq, France; [Hoyle, Rebecca B.] Univ Surrey, Dept Math, Guildford GU2 5XH, Surrey, England

Reprint Adress

Magar, V (reprint author), Univ Plymouth, Coastal Engn Res Grp, Inst Marine, Sch Marine Sci & Engn, Plymouth PL4 8AA, Devon, England.

Country(ies)
  • France
  • United Kingdom
CNRS - Adress(es)
  • Physique des lasers, atomes et molécules (PhLAM), UMR8523
Accession Number
WOS:000305808700019
uid:/Q1NH2HPC
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